we had epic swell on saturday 17 th , 45 knots of strong west wind the day before and mistral on the Perfect DAy with 7/8 seconds period :-))

I got there at 9.30 with Vittorio Off and Banzai were too exposed to the strong wind, water flying everywhere…. I knew Kala della Morte was the Place……

we took some photos and I headed north ,I started screamin when we turned left in the parking area :Kala was working magic , classic conditions , double over head sets and side off shore wind , 3 persons in water

we changed quickly ( 9 degrees outside but water at 17 °) and rushed down the stairs, swimming outside was like beeing at Rincon or Angourie, big sets peeling throw and inviting tube sections after the take off

I’ve seen big Luciano disappearing with his longboard in a perfect brown tube and two seconds later coming out that cavern, it was a special moment….

I caught my best wave and rode it with the lip bending over my head all the way down and Vito screaming and saying : Tubo Tubo !!

after two hours and a half I couldn’t swim and got out

this shot is my gift for you


ps two longboards broken in half and fins on the rocks 🙂

take care

stay culo


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